Celakovice and BUDAPEST

The week after Francis left was full of socialising and going out. It was a fun week and I really felt like I got to know some of the other Erasmus students even better. We even went to see a Czech band! They were called -123 minutes. They were Ok, they started well, but their music was a little too varied and eclectic. At one point it sounded something like the Islamic call to prayer. But it was good to do something a little different.

That weekend Kirstie and I were invited to our tutor’s house. This may seem a little odd, and at first I would have agreed with you, but there were four of us going, so it didn’t seem risky. He lives in a small town on the outskirts of Prague called celakovice. It was a booming town before communism took over, where all the rich landowners lived. However, communism really killed its high society and left the horrible scar of numerous estate blocks where there were once beautiful manor houses. Now it is on the up, with many of the richer Praguians choosing to live nearer the country and commute into Prague. We spent the weekend really sitting around and talking. We got to know the other English student out here, Matt, a lot better. We had had a bad first impression of him, taking him to be arrogant and pig headed, but being forced to talk to him for a few days, in a confined space, something we would have initially never wanted to do, we discovered that he is actually a good egg. Our tutor was a great host, making us lots of delicious food and keeping us entertained. It was still quite a surreal weekend. However it was an interesting experience to be in a real Czech home.

BUDAPEST


Just before I left to go to Celakovice I had the idea to go somewhere the following weekend. Friday the 17th was to be a national holiday, and I thought that maybe someone would like to go on a little trip with me. My first thought was to go to Krakow. I did a lot of research into it, and although it was possible, I didn’t want to take someone on a trip that had the potential to have any hiccups. Sam (the other English girl) was to be my travelling companion; Kirstie was to have friends visiting that weekend and was not able to join us. We met on the Tuesday morning to discuss where we should go. Very quickly we decided that it had to be Budapest, so we went on the search for tickets. We unfortunately were too late for the extremely cheap bus; they were all booked up, so we ended up getting train tickets. I have to admit that I would have wanted to go by train anyway; it’s such a nicer way to travel.

We arrived in Budapest on the Friday morning at 10.30am, we had already been on a train for 5 hours, and you can imagine we weren’t feeling our best. However we found the hostel we had booked very easily, and they were thankfully very welcoming and helpful. We then dumped our stuff and hit the road as quickly as we could, we didn’t want to waste any time.

Budapest is a lovely city. We strolled around, got on the very nice, huge trams, and sometimes got the metro. On our wonders I feel like we got a really nice feel for the city. The people are not at all intimidating like they are in the Czech republic, you do not feel at all ashamed all guilty that you don’t speak Hungarian. This meant we were happy to wonder into places that didn’t have English menus in the window, we were far freer to explore. Thankfully I was given a few very helpful hints from some of my friends that either had been all live in Budapest. From these we discovered some amazing bars. The best was down a street we would never have thought of walking down, and then through a door we would never in a million years have gone through. To then find a huge space, half derelict half trendy bar, with lots of atmospheric lighting. The space felt like it was in between two buildings. It was partly open air, there were outdoor heaters keeping the place cosy. It is so difficult to describe.

One of the highlights of Budapest was going to a Turkish bath. Budapest is famous for its thermal baths, there loads of them. I went to the biggest called ‘Szechenyi Baths’. The ticket gets you in for the whole day, and you get money back if you come out within 2 hours. I was unfortunately only in there for about one and half hours, Sam didn’t have a swimsuit or a towel so I couldn’t be there too long because she was waiting for me. It was a real shame she wasn’t in there with me, because it is the perfect place to wonder around and chat. It is a HUGE place, so many pools, all different sizes and temperatures. I was even swimming outside! The weather was amazingly warm; it wasn’t even too painful to go from the door to the pool. Another highlight was climbing Gellert Hill. Stefan had said that it was a must do for Budapest, but when I saw it on the Friday morning, still felling the affects of the train journey, it looked like mount Everest; I wrote it off. However, the next day, we felt a lot better, and that evening, we made the climb. It was well worth the effort, what a view!

I can’t wait to go back, it is one of those cities that I feel there is so much yet for me to do! I look forward to returning when my friends are living there again, then maybe I can get a little more out of those menus

Winter Wonderland

So on the 2nd of November Francis finally arrived in the Czech Republic. I say finally because it felt like a lifetime of waiting. But the 2nd of November was the arrival of something else as well… SNOW!

That’s right, that morning I woke up, already bursting with excitement, to look out of the window and see a winter wonderland. The normally green view was now completely white! I couldn’t believe it! I had heard rumours of snow. But at the beginning of November?! I told them; you’ve got to be having a laugh. And mum and dad can both vouch for the fact that the previous week was glorious. Sunny, warm, dry, it was the perfect autumnal weather.


I text Francis that morning to give him prior warning of the night time blizzard. But nothing could have prepared him for the chill factor. With the snow, also came a taste of the cold weather to come. I am really almost a little scared of that kind of cold being a daily occurrence. It was frrrreeezzzing. I even bought the warmest coat I could find, almost in a state of panic. However the weather was quite the novelty for Francis, visiting from the city that at best only sees sludge in the winter, he seemed to enjoy seeing a bit of the white stuff. It didn’t hinder our weekend in the slightest. We had a lovely time of lazing around, seeing some of the sights of Brno, and eating, eating played quite a key part. Francis became a little addicted to a popular snack over here called ‘Parek v Rohliku’. It basically consists of a frankfurter covered in mustard and then shoved inside a Rohlik, which is basically a bread roll. He couldn’t get enough of them. I will have to try and bring back some of the ingredients so to make him one on my return.

I couldn’t have had a better weekend. Francis being here and the freak snow, it was really quite special. Quite poetically the moment Francis left, the last of the snow melted away. Brno was the same old Brno

The visitors…

The weekend after the first tutorial was the beginning of my busy week. The first wave was a visit from my German friend Johannes who was visiting from Prague. He arrived on the Friday and left the Sunday night. On the Friday night we all went to an Erasmus party. It was Spanish themed, with sangria flowing and Spanish music playing. It was a great night, with lots of games to encourage mingling. My favourite was the couple’s game, in which everyone was given a sticker with a name, and you had to find your famous, or obvious partner. I, quite appropriately, was given the ‘queen’ sticker. My ‘king’ turned out to be Manos, a jolly Greek guy; we took full advantage of our positions of authority. The night was a blast, but sadly ended a little sourly when we missed our bus and sat outside for what felt like hours!

The next day, as you can imagine was a bit of a write off. However, my friend Johannes was very keen to visit a modernist building, designed by a German architect who is internationally acclaimed, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. It took us an age to find the building, which is located in a very unimpressive residential area. Finally when we found it, we discovered that visits were by reservation only. Luckily there were free places the following day for the tour. The Villa Tugendhat (www.tugendhat-villa.cz), is a bit of a land mark for modernist architecture in the 1930’s. It is vast in its proportions and really a very impressive building. The exterior and some of the interior are in desperate need of some TLC, and it was sad to see it in such a sorry state. However, Brno is very proud of this building and I think it is only a matter of time before they start some serious restoration.

For the rest of Johannes’ visit we wondered around Brno and talked about how different it was to Prague. I think we both agreed that Brno is far more of a relaxed and calm place compared to Prague. It has an air of a holiday town, somewhere people go for a break.

This calm atmosphere was short lived with the arrival of my parents the following day. The madness was very welcome, as I was so thrilled to see them walk through the arrivals gate at Brno airport. It was to be a crazy week of sight seeing, eating and drinking in excess. In their short time in Brno it unfortunately rained almost the whole time, I think they saw what a friendly town it was through the grey clouds. We went first class to Prague on the Wednesday, never travelled so comfortably before, to have a few gloriously warm days. I was so pleased that the sun came out, I think they really saw Prague at its best. Not overly busy, the tourists don’t arrive until the weekend. Also, with my friends recommendations and my ‘ellen tours’ practice I planned an enjoyable but thorough schedule of events. I had such a fun few days. Seeing my friends and spending loads of time with mum and dad, it really couldn’t have been more perfect!

I think mum and dad enjoyed themselves. My mum got to enjoy the beauty, culture, jazz and classical music. And dad got to indulge himself on very reasonable beer and meat, served like you have never seen before. I got to see a more sophisticated side of Prague that only through mum and dads generosity I was able to experience.






By the way, I went to the opera whilst I was in Prague. It was really fun getting dressed up, and with tickets in the gods only two quid, I think I could get used to wearing my finery.

The Tutor…

I mentioned a while ago that I was due to meet my tutor Josef Danek. Well on Wednesday the 18th October, the day finally arrived. Thankfully, when we turned up to our first meeting he knew exactly who we were, to our great relief. And seemed very excited to have us there. He was very welcoming and immediately invited us to his house for dinner (an invitation that we are yet to fulfil). The meeting was a mix of Czech and English; moments of great confusion were to follow for both us, and the Czech students. I think the language combination is going to make for interesting debates.

Kirstie and my presentations of our work were saved until the end of the meeting. It seemed that Josef was quite keen to move quickly, so unfortunately we weren’t really able to discuss our work properly. But to be honest I didn’t really have much to say, I have found it quite difficult to get stuck into any work. It’s so difficult finding materials and equipment that most ideas soon become more effort than they’re worth. We soon realised what Josef was in such a hurry for, as we were rushed out of the studio to Josef’s favourite drinking hole. Quite a few beers later, Josef wobbled off home. We talked to one of the other students after he left and discovered that Josef has a bit of drinking problem. I wouldn’t be surprised with the price of alcohol out here, that everyone has a drinking problem. But it’s something that Kirstie and I should be aware of. I don’t think it will be a problem as long as we keep him clear of any hospodas.

Operation: MAKE FRIENDS

Last I updated my blog I believe I was talking about my fabulous birthday weekend. Well since then I have had a very active few weeks. Many visitors, and hence not much time spent on the old computer. I think you should all take it as a good thing. You would not want me to become a pale, lonely computer geek. I mean what would I write about?

I don’t remember where I left off when I last wrote. I think it may have been just as Ellen left. If I repeat myself I am sorry.

The week Ellen left I was filled with a new found energy to make more of an effort with my fellow Brno Erasmus students. I felt that I had judged them prematurely. On the following Thursday night, there was a meeting for the Erasmus crowd. I really was not at all interested in going but I thought I should show my face if not to reassure everyone that I was still alive. When I was there I got chatting with Sam, one of 4 Brits (including myself) out in Brno. After a few drinks and then a few more, I had made another friend in Brno and we made arrangements to meet again. She’s a really lovely girl from Bolton, very friendly and fun.

Following my night of heavy socialising, I was invited to a BBQ, on what the Erasmus students in halls call ‘the hill’. It all sounded quite spooky, and Kirstie and I really didn’t know what to expect. When we arrived, sure enough we were led up quite a steep hill. It was pitch black, but then, out of the darkness, a huddled group crowded around a very precarious looking BBQ emerged. There was much, probably under-cooked meat, being passed around (do not fret, I have lived to tell the tale). And it was really nice to have a good chat with everyone. They are a really friendly bunch. Sitting there around a bonfire, that out of freezing necessity we decided to build, I met Pauline, a French girl from Brittany. We really hit it off, and had a great chat about all the places we have both travelled to. Wow, look at me go, another friend to add to the list! Pauline came round to visit our little flat the following week. It was quite exciting for Kirstie and I to have somebody round for dinner.

I feel I succeeded in my mission to make more friends. Kirstie and I have met more people, a great result. I think it is really important to become friendly with the Erasmus crowd, we are all in the same boat and they are the best people to sympathise with any problems.

Happy Birthday to me...

So, since I last wrote on this blog I have turned 23. Madness. To all those interested, I feel no different, and not at all daunted by the fact that I am now only 2 years from the big 25 (Stef, 17 days and counting, oh that’s made me feel instantly better). The week leading up to my birthday weekend we made great strides in becoming more part of the university. As well as getting our student cards, we were introduced to Martina, a fellow Drawing Atelier (Studio) student. She was very kind as to show us around the studios and to show us where our tutor’s office is. Josef Danek, our tutor, is at the moment in Leeds, how ironic, I know, however he will be returning in a week. We also, after much chasing around after a certain Erasmus coordinator, Marketa, managed to get our travel cards. It has come as much of a relief for me, as up until this point I was becoming tired of getting tram tickets, and was travelling as what they call here, a black rider. I know it all sounds very dramatic. But it was annoying to worry all the time about getting caught.

So it was a week of organising and planning. Oh, we went to a party on the Wednesday evening at our Czech friend Lena’s flat. It was her boyfriend Filip’s birthday. It was an interesting experience because Kirstie and I were the only un-Czech people there. It was fine at first but then when more people arrived and there was less reason to struggle with English and talk to Kirstie and I, we did feel a little awkward. These events do make me more and more determined to learn Czech, because I really want to become friends with these people. They are very into the art scene of Brno and they just seem interesting.

The days leading up to Ellen’s arrival seemed to drag on for ages. The Saturday when she was due, was so difficult to fill, I was just too excited. Then it dawned on me, that Ellen doesn’t have the best track record when it comes to making flights. So my excitement was quickly replaced by dread. But Ellen did not disappoint, and with an early arrival Ellen was in the Czech Republic!!! It was so great to see her, for the obvious reason that it was, well, Ellen, but also because I was so desperate to see a familiar face. And also, with the last few weeks spent exclusively with Kirstie, I think Kirstie and I both were pleased to have someone else to talk to.

The first Evening Ellen was here, Kirstie and I took her to a traditional Czech hospoda (pub) for some Czech grub. I think Ellen liked the cuisine, to be honest I don’t think anyone could dislike Czech food; it is just wholesome and plentiful. We needed the energy because the following day we were on the early bus to PRAHA. It was so nice to see all my Prague friends again. My Austrian friend Daniel was kind enough to put us up for the two nights we were there. Therefore more money to sepnd, eating, drinking and café-ing around Prague. And I don’t think Ellen and I could say that we didn’t take full advantage of the extra cash. We had such a fun packed few days, that it really felt like we had spent more like a week there.

At the stroke of midnight, the moment I turned 23, there was a ring at Daniel’s doorbell and I was greeted by two singing Germans (Johannes and Feli), a mountain of home made muffins (chocolate, apple and cinnamon) and a burning candle. It was the nicest surprise. I was so touched that they had thought to do such a nice thing! That morning I opened all my cards, thank you very much mum and dad for the kind donation to the birthday party fund, and ate as many muffins as my stomach to take.

That evening, I had a little party at a friend’s flat. Lots of people I didn’t expect to see were there. It was such a nice evening of chatting and drinking. All in all I had a lovely birthday, and I think the cream on the cake was that Ellen was here to spend it with me.

Talking of cakes, I had another birthday get together in Prague. This was a lot more low key with only Honza and Lena as our guests. But Kirstie and I spent all day preparing for it. Kirstie made a cake. It had the most amazing ingredients, and we both thought that it was going to be the best cake ever! But sadly the oven did not work its magic, and the cake didn’t rise as much as I think it should. The cake was pretty heavy, but still delicious. Must take a smaller slice next time. So that evening really concluded my birthday celebrations. It was so nice to sit and chat to Honza and Lena, both of whom are very much involved in the Czech art scene. Honza being a art lecturer and Lena just being one of those great people who is always creating something.

P.S Unbelievable Ellen and I almost missed her bus to the airport. The girl is seriously jinxed!

Erasmus anyone?

So I promised you all that I would tell you about the new people we have met in Brno, mainly the other Erasmus students. Our first encounter with them was during our language course. Sadly Kirstie sat next to the most miserable of them all, a chemistry student from Moscow, so we didn’t have a very good opinion of them initially. Throughout that first week we went to class, chatted briefly with some of them, and then went home. I know, not much effort on our part. But the first weekend we had a welcome dinner and then the following day, a full agenda of meals and outings, so we had no choice but to socialise.

The welcome dinner was a bit of a nightmare… thankfully we sat with nice people and managed to actually talk for more than just a minute. But the restaurant was completely unprepared for the arrival of 70 hungry students, and we waited 3 HOURS for our meal. After the first pangs of hunger passed it wasn’t so bad waiting, it was just irritating. Especially when people started to leave, and we were almost the last seated. But whilst we waited we met a German girl, Daniela, who is also studying fine art. She seems very nice, chatty and a good contact to have in moments of confusion. We were then introduced to the two other English Erasmus students, Henry and Sam from Bolton. Both have great northern accents, something of a problem they were telling me, when trying to be understood by our fellow Europeans. For most of the evening we chatted to Martin, from BRNO, an actual Czech student. He seemed very friendly at first, but then started slagging off England a little too much. It was a bit of a joke for Kirstie and I because he was basing his whole opinion on our fair land from a semester he spent in Coventry. I mean, come on! I think most people would slag off England if Coventry was their only point of reference. Anyway, he refused to take what we had to say about Coventry into account. He seems quite keen to be our friend; Kirstie and I have already declined one offer to go for a drink.



Following that evening and the next day, going around the vineyards of southern Moravia, we have concluded that it is not going to be that easy to befriend the other Erasmus students. For one, they alllll live in the Dormitories, the equivalent to Halls of residence in the UK, except with one hob shared among 40 students and probably fewer toilets and showers. They are pretty bleak. They are also very far away from the centre of town. I love our little flat, but when it comes to meeting people you really can’t beat the dormitories. They are also dirrrt cheap, only about 60 quid a month. But enough about the benefits of dormitories, been there, done that, and when most of the rooms are shared I am glad not to be there. But I haven’t given up on our Erasmus lot. I feel there are some good’ens amongst them, and I intend to seek them out.

P.S Of the Moravian Wine that we sampled… Czech wine seems pretty bad. Really nothing to write home about, so that is all I will say on the matter.